OverSixty April 2023 Digital

ISSUE 4 | APRIL 2023 | OVERSIXTY.COM.AU 34 TRAVEL Portugal’s robust, vibrant small city of the north, Porto, is more than the sum of its many and varied bridges Who put the port into PORTUGAL? BEV MALZARD PLAN I was coming to the end of a cruise along the silky Douro River in Portugal through an old part of the world that is thus far un- spoilt, mellow and innocent of mass tourism at its most voracious. We had visited vineyards that have been producing wine for hundreds of years, walked through sleepy, ancient villages and skipped across the border to take in Spain for a sunny afternoon. But the cruise was at an end and a new landing and a new city was revving up the anticipation endorphins. "e vessel was sliding to where the river meets the sea, through the city of Porto. "is is an aged city and under a brilliant blue sky the view of the built-up apartments on the edge of the shore and the emergence of bridge after bridge, from wrought iron to modern concrete construction, gives the riv- er an energetic, gleeful aura. Porto is high spirited, a charming place, jam-packed with solid buildings, Ro- man-style ramparts, higgledy piggledy alley- ways, wide open Parisian-style town squares, elegant boutiques, crumbling shop facades, blue and white ceramic tiled walls and loiter- ing, scru$y, o$-hand dogs. Baroque church- es display excessive gold decoration and overwhelming artwork, and cli$ tops use the city as decorative drapery. Upcountry at- titude prevails here and the tripeiros (Porto locals) are hardworking and have been quot- ed as saying: “we earn themoney and Lisbon spends it”. Intercity rivalry? Along the serene Douro River, steep-sided, terraced vineyards produce the ‘gold’ of the region – port wine. It makes its way down to Porto, named for the potent elixir, and it was Porto that put the ‘Port’ into Portugal. "e main part of Porto sits on the craggy blu$s east of the mouth of the Douro River. Avenida do Aliados is a broad avenue run- ning through the central part of the city lined with handsome, intricately detailed, Art Nouveau buildings. South of the avenue is the Ribeira district, the historic heartbeat and an eclectic and at- tractive neighbourhood. Alongside the riverside promenade I view the traditional boats (barco rabelos) that used to ferry the port wine down the river. From here you can see wine lodges across the river in the town of Vila Nova de Gaia, a busy precinct but accessible, friendly and easy to navigate. It’s not too tricked up and its shabbiness conveys warmth and hospitality. One of the bridges of the city is pretty spe- cial – the double decker Ponte Dom Luis I was completed in 1886 by a student of Gus- tave Ei$el (yes, that one). "e top deck is for pedestrians and one of the city’s metro lines and the bottom deck carries cars and trucks. Nearby to Avenida dos Aliados is the gorgeous San Bento railway station. It’s so glamorous: there’s huge Portuguese tiled artwork (azulejos) depicting battle scenes and the history of local public transport – no battles were fought over a tram line! Not far from the avenue is the pedestrian ‘mall’, Rua Santa Catarina. "is is the main shopping district of the area, with a host of shops for clothes, shoes, souvenirs and homewares and many quaint and welcoming cafes. Black-suited, bow-tied waiters swiftly nav- igate crowded co$ee houses balancing little silver trays bearing pastries, or cups of co$ee. "e atmosphere in most of the eating or drinking establishments is vibrant and I was swept up in the joy of what eating out really means – serious business. On a corner in the shopping district is a building that startles with its glorious façade. "e Capela das Almas is covered in lustrous blue azulejos. An integral part of Portuguese culture, azujelos, typically, are painted, tin- glazed ceramic tiles that decorate the inside and outside of rooms, homes and public buildings throughout Portugal. Not only dec- orative, they help control the temperature inside the buildings. "e Moors introduced them to Spain and Portugal after learning about the azulejos from the Persians. The art of the tart Porto people have the nickname ‘tripeiros’, meaning ‘tripe eaters’. And therein lies a tale. When Henry the Navigator was preparing to sail to Morocco in 1415, Porto’s loyal citi- zens donated their best meat to the expedi- tion, keeping the o$al for themselves, which earned them the nickname – tripeiros. Fish, !sh and more !sh also suited me here but as well as an obsession with the lo- cal sardines, I couldn’t get enough of the pas- tries. Ah, those buttery, fragrant Portuguese Clockwise from top left: Porto from Ponte Dom Luis 1; the bridge itself; the Capela das Almas; Portuguese tarts and port Photos: Getty Images PLAN tarts, enough to melt a heart of stone. If you can manage to eat only two at a sitting – well c’mon, life is too short to miss eating three tarts at a time. "e layers of !ne pastry of the ‘Pasteis de Nata’ is a crispy crust that holds a creamy custard, blistered on top from the oven’s high heat. And what is a visit to Porto without a tipple of the ‘gold’, aka port. You can buy direct from the warehouses in Vila Nova de Gaia but it’s nice to ask for a glass in a restaurant or café and join in the pleasant imbibing of Portu- gal’s best drop with the locals. To learn more about all the wonders Porto has to o$er, visit www.visitportugal.com.