OverSixty January 2023 Issue

37 TRAVEL OVERSIXTY.COM.AU | ISSUE 3 | JANUARY 2023 Clockwise from left: the Dome of the Rock; Roman remains of Capernaum; Church of the Holy Sepulchre; alleyway stalls; the River Jordan Photos: Hugh Hanson DESTINATIONS Prayers written on paper are tucked into the crevices of the stone wall, until they are taken away and buried in a Jewish cemetery. The Mount of Olives A calm sanctuary overlooking the hustle and bustle of the Old City of Jerusalem, this is where Jesus is reputed to have taught his disciples. The olive trees offer shade from the heat of the day and there are excellent views across the Kidron valley to the golden Dome of the rock. Church of the Holy Sepulchre I’d seen pictures, but nothing prepared me for themysterious quality of this labyrinthine structure, built over the ground where Chris- tians believe Jesus was crucified, buried and resurrected. It’s a dark and sprawling collision of build- ings and artefacts spanning the millennia. Multitudes of candles flicker in the dark, and shafts of light illuminate the incense filled air. The Dome of the Rock In contrast to the Church of the Holy Sepul- chre, the Dome of the Rock sits on a raised plateau, high above the noise and bustle of the streets below, bathed in bright sunshine. Anyone is free to walk through the exten- sive grounds shaded by olive trees and ad- mire the views, but onlyMuslims are allowed to enter the Mosque. Eating out Israelis love to eat out, and it’s a great way to sit and rest for a while and watch the cos- mopolitan crowds go by. You’ll find all sorts of cuisines, incorporating foods from the Middle East and Mediterranean. If you like falafel, hummus and couscous, you’re going to be in paradise. Pizza is also very popular! But be warned though – food is not cheap. Swimming in the River Jordan Tradition has it that Jesus was baptised by his cousin John in the cool waters of the River Jordan. The river divides Israel from Jordan, and both countries are keen to have their own baptismal spot – after all, there are a lot of tourist dollars to be had. I swam in the riv- er from the Jewish side at Yardenit. As I en- tered the water tiny fish nibbled at my toes, a delightful – if very ticklish – experience! The alleyways of Old Jerusalem The Old City is a maze-like structure of nar- row alleyways and buildings, and although less than one square kilometre in size you can very easily get disorientated. It’s sur- rounded by a city wall, built by Suleiman the Magnificent in 1542, and has several entries. I entered at the beautiful Damascus Gate. Divided into four quarters – Muslim, Christian, Armenian and Jewish – the nar- row streets are packed with brightly coloured stores selling Christian souvenirs, aromat- ic spices, modern and traditional clothing, nine-branched candelabrum, Muslimprayer rugs and multitudes of knick-knacks. It’s a fabulous way to lose yourself – literally! – in this exotic and intoxicating country.  Exploring Israel Continued from page 32