Over Sixty Spring 2022 Digital

38 TRAVEL ISSUE 2 | 2022 | OVERSIXTY.COM.AU Beauty on board the TranzAlpine Rail New Zealand isn’t short on stunning scenery, but nothing competes with the dramatic landscapes that greet passengers onboard the TranzAlpine rail This is Australia’s big state – home to big natural attractions and big experiences BELINDA LUKSIC TRAVEL R egarded as one of the great rail journeys of the world, the modern scenic rail line rolls daily over the magnificent and misty Southern Alps, between Christchurch and the west coast town of Greymouth. The TranzAlpine is one of three eye- popping rail journeys that link the North and South Islands, between Auckland and Greymouth, all of which have now returned to operations following a Covid-enforced hiatus. KiwiRail’s most popular rail journey, departing Christchurch, the train shoots west across the vast and fertile Canterbury Plains, barrelling through 17 tunnels, and across five viaducts and bridges, as it climbs the bank of imposing mountains that run 450km north to south through the backbone of South Island. ROLLING VIEWS Photographers will want to snag a spot in one of the train’s two open-air observation cars. Over the course of four-and-a-half hours, the scenery shifts dramatically from farmland and fields dotted with native blooms, to vast rivers, plunging ravines and alluvial plains framed by towering snow-capped moun- tains. Those who opt for the warmth of the carriage won’t be disappointed – along with panoramic windows and comfortable reclin- ing seats, is fascinating audio commentary on the places and views rolling by. ARTHURS PASS Nestled in high country, midway to the West Coast, the tiny town of Arthurs Pass is a pop- ular spot for hikers, at the gateway to Arthurs Pass National Park. Named after Sir Arthur Dobson, who led the first party of Europeans over the pass in 1864, this is the highest set- tlement inNewZealand, withmore than four metres of rainfall each year. There are dozens of walking trails of varying difficulty through rainforest and deep dramatic gorges, braid- ed rivers and stands of silver beech forest. During the winter, the area is a hive of skiers and snowboarders. Look out for the comical, olive-green Kea, endemic to the region and the world’s only mountain parrot. EPIC HIGHS The 223kmpathof theTranzAlpine is asmuch a feat of engineering as it is startling beauty. Nowhere is this more evident than the Stair- case Viaduct – a 73m tall bridge spanning the Waimakariri River, with staggering views of the gorge and braided channels of turquoise, ice-fed rivers below. Equally impressive is the 8.5km Otira Tunnel, at one time the longest tunnel in the southern hemisphere, which plunges passengers in darkness for min- utes at a time, as it hurtles down through the SouthernAlps and out into the blinking bright wilderness of theWest Coast. RIVERS AND LAKES Snow-covered mountains are never far from view on the TranzAlpine, but it’s the grand- stand views of the Waikamariri Gorge and its twists of candy-blue rivers that capture the imagination. Viaducts span tributaries, mir- ror-smooth lakes reflect the sky and braided rivers twist and turn between riverbeds of sil- very shale. Midway between Arthurs Pass and Greymouth is Moana and the waters of Lake Brunner, the largest lake in South Island, and a three-hour stop between trains for passen- gers who want to stretch their legs along the path of the lake, through rainforest and large wetlands teeming with birds. THE TRAIN The TranzAlpine today is a stylish, light-filled ride. Panoramic carriages replaced the old refurbished compartments in 2012, and two open-air observation cars were added. Pre- mium carriages feature panoramic windows and skylights, spacious forward-reclining seats, USB chargers and complimentary headphones. Other carriages offer comfort- able table-top seating for four. The licensed buffet car serves beer and bubbles, espresso coffee, juices, sandwiches and wraps. TRAVEL Above: The TranzAlpine crossing Lake Sarah. To book, visit www. greatjourneysofnz.co.nz Photo: Great Journeys of NZ 5 reasons to visit WA ALISON GODFREY INSPIRE W estern Australia is extraordinary in scope and experiences – our largest state has a lot to brag about. Here are five reasons you should consider WA for your next holiday. Wildflowers WA’s wildflower season begins in September and sweeps south until the end of November. South-west WA boasts 8,000 unique varieties of wildflowers. One of the best places to see them is the Margaret River region, particu- larly along the 135km Cape to Cape Track. Stirling Range National Park, Albany and the Fitzgerald River National Park near Esper- ance also have great wildflower displays. Kings Park Botanic Garden in Perth show- cases 3,000 of WA’s 12,000 species of native flora. If you can only make it to Perth, you should stop here for a floral stroll. Waterfalls WA doesn’t do ordinary waterfalls. It has the only two horizontal waterfalls in the world. Both can be found north in Talbot Bay in the Buccaneer Archipelago. Tidal fluctuations force an extraordinary amount of water through two narrow cliff passages. This creates a discrepancy with the ocean level of up to four metres and a unique waterfall effect. To see it for yourself, head to the Kimberley towns of Broome or Derby. From there you can take a tour of the falls by boat or plane. The world’s largest outdoor gallery The white salt plains of Lake Ballard in WA house a collection of 51 individually cast black chromium steel sculptures designed by artist Antony Gormley. This incredible gallery is 10 kilometres long. Each sculpture represents a local resident of Menzies, a town 45 minutes drive away from Lake Ballard. The best times to visit the gallery are early morning or late afternoon, when the shad- ows are long and stretch across the lake. Al- lowat least two hours to fully appreciate Lake Ballard. WA Tourism also recommends you walk with a friend and always carry water with you. Quokkas WA is the only place in the world where you can take a quokka selfie. The cheerful-looking marsupials are mainly found on Rottnest Island near Perth. Quokkas have round compact bodies and tend to be about the same size as a cat. They are herbivores and they tend to be most active at night. But you will still see plenty around in the day to take photos with. The Margaret River The Margaret River is WA’s premium wine region. It has more than 100 wineries as well as boutique breweries, art galleries and fine restaurants. The region produces about 15 per cent of Australia’s premiumwine includ- ing Cape Mentelle, Voyager Estate and Moss Wood. It’s not just about the wine. In theMargaret River, you can easily go from award-winning wineries to stunning beaches, tall-timber forest and ancient caves. The region is also known for big wave surfing, rock climbing, canoeing and whale watching tours. Above left: Beautiful wildflowers on display at Fitzgerald River National Park. Above: what’s not to love about quokkas? Photos: Getty Images INSPIRE INSPIRE